Refrigerator Does Not Cool or Runs Continuously Refrigerator Does Not Cool but Runs Normally Refrigerator Does Not Cool or Runrefrigerator repair diagram Refrigerator Does Not Defrost Refrigerator Is Too Cold or Freezes Food Refrigerator Light Does Not Shut Off Refrigerator Rattles or Leaks A refrigerator may have any of several problems that require troubleshooting and repair. Though refrigerators are generally very dependable, they can break down and—when they do—the result can be serious because food can spoil in a hurry. Though many problems call for a refrigerator repairperson, you can handle some simple repairs yourself and, when you do, you can save both money and the time and hassle of waiting for help. Do-it-yourself fixes tend to involve checking the power, controls, condenser coils, and other parts outside of your refrigerator’s sealed, hermetic system. Remember that the best way to lengthen the life of a refrigerator is to clean the condenser coils at least once a year. It is recommended to clean condenser coils on certain types of refrigerators, such as side-by-side and built-in models, at least twice a year. (For instructions on how to do this yourself, see How to Clean Refrigerator Coils.) If you have a refrigerator with black coils mounted on the back, these coils don’t require semi-annual cleaning. Refrigerator Does Not Cool or Runs Continuously If the refrigerator’s light works and you can hear the refrigerator running but it cools poorly or does not stop running, make sure nothing is blocking the passageway between the freezer and the refrigerator compartments. If airflow is restricted by, for example, a loaf of bread situated in front of the passageway, the refrigerator won’t get cold. Be aware that a refrigerator will tend to run longer when it’s full of food, the door is opened frequently, or the room temperature is hot. If your refrigerator runs without stopping, it may be low on refrigerant and cannot reach the low temperature that the cold control dial summons. More likely, it is a defrost problem in which a component in the automatic defrosting system is faulty. This could be a defrost heater, a defrost timer, or a defrost terminator. Before you call a repairperson, do the following: 1) Determine whether the refrigerator section is being cooled. If you see frost at the top of a “frost-free” refrigerator even when the cold control is set low, it means the refrigerator probably has a full charge of refrigerant and it is the thermostat that is faulty or out of calibration.refrigerator temperature 2) Try turning the cold control both up and down. If the compressor doesn’t shut off, the cold control may be broken. Call a repairperson. During the repair, it is a good idea to have the defrost timer and heaters checked to ensure they are working correctly. 3) Look at the condenser coils, located at the bottom of the refrigerator (behind the kick plate) or, in some cases, at the back. These coils disperse heat from inside the refrigerator out into the room with the aid of a fan. If the coils are dirty, the refrigerator won’t operate efficiently. You must clean them regularly. 4) Make sure the drain line under the evaporator coils, which goes to a pan underneath, is not plugged up (water should drip into the pan when the refrigerator is defrosting). 5) To put off having the refrigerator repaired for a few days, you may be able to defrost it manually with a hair dryer—if you can access the cooling coils in the freezer section. Excessive moisture in the coils can turn into a frozen mass, reducing efficiency. expert adviceHomeTips Pro Tip: Be very careful when using the hair dryer near a water source as there is a serious risk of electrical shock. Also be careful not to melt the plastic parts. Refrigerator Does Not Cool but Runs Normally If a refrigerator doesn’t cool at all, the problem is often with the basic electrical controls and almost never with a need for a boost of refrigerant. Also do not assume the problem is related to the compressor or the sealed, hermetic system; these types of malfunctions happen only rarely. Instead, the unit may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn’t seal tightly, or a defective temperature control. Before you call in an appliance repairperson: 1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to “cold.” Normally, the temperature inside the refrigerator should be about 37 degrees F. 2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the refrigerator are both set to cool. 3) Listen for the compressor fan (which will also tell you where the compressor is located—typically behind or beneath the refrigerator). When the freezer fan is operating, the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time). 4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the refrigerator will offer very little cooling or none at all. Call an appliance repairperson. Refrigerator Does Not Cool or Run If the refrigerator’s light doesn’t work and it’s motor doesn’t run: 1) To operate, a refrigerator needs electricity. Check the power. Make sure the receptacle works (plug in a working lamp or a circuit tester). If the receptacle doesn’t work, check for a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. 2) Be sure the cold control is turned on. 3) If you discover that the refrigerator is plugged into a working outlet and the cold control is on but the device shows no signs of life, leave the door closed to retain the cold air and call an appliance repairperson. Refrigerator Does Not Defrost Most modern refrigerators defrost automatically. They have a defrost timer, a defrost heater, and a defrost terminator. When a frost-free refrigerator is running, it builds up frost on the tubing in the back of the freezer wall. Normally, the defrost timer automatically cycles the refrigerator to defrost for about 20 minutes every six to eight hours—it essentially heats up coils to melt the ice. If it isn’t working right, ice remains on the tubing and, eventually, restricts airflow through the refrigerator. On some refrigerators, you can manually advance the defrost timer, a small black box that may be located almost anywhere but is usually on the ceiling of the fresh food section. Advance it until it clicks into the defrost mode (you should be able to hear the heaters come on). If this works, the defrost timer is defective and will need to be replaced, but taking this action will keep it running for a little while. If this technique doesn’t work, the problem is probably the heater or the terminator. Either call the manufacturer for advice or call in a qualified appliance repairperson. Refrigerator Is Too Cold or Freezes Food  As a rule, refrigerators are designed to maintain 36 to 40 degrees F. in the refrigerator box and 0 to 5 degrees F. in the freezer box. If your refrigerator compartment freezes its contents, even when the cold control is set to its lowest setting, the control is probably defective. Setting the cold control to a lower temperature than is recommended by the manufacturer will only cost you extra in energy dollars and will not get to the root of the problem. Instead, call an appliance repairperson. Refrigerator Light Does Not Shut Off refrigerator door light repair It is, of course, difficult to tell if this is happening, but you should be able to see the light go off when the door is a fraction of an inch from closing. You can also feel the bulb, carefully, when you first open the door. If it has stayed on, it will be hot. A lightbulb that stays on will warm the refrigerator’s interior, cutting down on its efficiency. Test the light-switch button that the door closes against. When you push it in all the way, the light should go off. If it doesn’t, the light switch is defective and must be replaced. If you are adept at simple repairs, this is a job that you may be able to handle yourself—but be sure to unplug the refrigerator before working on it. Refrigerator Rattles or Leaks Vibrating noises are generally caused by loose parts such as loose condenser coils or compressor “tubing rattle” or by rollers and feet that sit unevenly on the floor. Look for any part that is loose. Then remove the bottom trim piece by lifting it off its supports, and check the feet at the front of the unit. If necessary, turn the adjustable feet up or down so they contact the floor squarely. Leaking under a refrigerator may be caused by a condensation tube that doesn’t drain into a pan or by a clogged freezer drain.